It's 7 in the morning, I pull on my wet suit, tie the leash around my ankle grab my board and charge.
The air has not yet developed it's full temperature. There's a certain thrill I get when I notice the water is warmer than the air outside.
Duck dive, the first time I go completely under water through a wave is the moment I realize that from that day on, I will never stop wanting that satisfying feeling of a renewed being that I now feel that I have become. The waves are calm as I wait for the next set to come. Between the first set and the second, as I sit upon my board in the middle of the ocean, there's a state of serenity I am hit by. I realize I am more thankful for everything than I ever have been. I want to embrace every soul in the entire world! It's a state of peace in my mind that no one, not even anything, will harm me.
I open my eyes, here comes the first wave of the set, flip my board around in one movement wait til the wave is right where it needs to be so that I can begin to paddle, ready, set, GO! As I paddle, I realize that I... Myself and the ocean are compromising. It's a human vs ocean coordination. As the moving wave of water lifts me, I jump up one foot in front of the other, I'm up!
As I glide on the face of the wave, I now realize that life couldn't be better.
That's just a portion of who I am.
That's just a portion of who I am.
